Day 3: Four wheel drive stress test

I have always wanted to drive the “road less traveled” north across the desert to Hukuntsi. One can travel east then north then west on paved or hard pan road to get to Hukuntsi from Tsabong or one can travel straight north over, well… I was about to find out. About 10km out of town I started to think that this would be cake as the road was hard pan and I was doing an easy 80km/hr. I had seen a jackal, some endangered vultures, and paw prints that had to be lion.

Then the paved road ended and the fun began; picture driving through flour, rutted and deep, for 180km. No use steering as the ruts take you where they will. I stopped frequently and wondered at the silence and again at the subtle but now more familiar changes in flora. There were gemsbok (pronounced “hemsbok”); huge elk sized animals that were everywhere. Also long needled porcupines, impalas, and more. I went through villages that had no real reason that I could see for being where they were, except that that’s where they had been for millennia. I stopped at all the medical outposts and introduced myself and began to “network” or at least left a bunch of B-UP cards. I always encouraged them to call the referral hospital, in this case Tsabong, for assistance but if for some reason they needed different help I was always there.

I got to Hukuntsi in about 8hrs, found fuel, and then called some physician friends that I have known since I came to Bots. It is so different to drive around when basically all I have done is fly in and fly out. I promptly was invited over to see them, and for dinner. Well I didn’t want to impose…”Dr. Mike this is Africa! You are always welcome and there will always be enough.” We ate “poppa”, a staple corn based congealed porridge, with tripe in a tomato sauce, and beans, and with our hands at that. It was the first meal I had had in three days and was fantastic. Beer was brought out and as I reached into my pocket for a multi-tool with opener the hosts just used their teeth. Africans that I have seen in several countries seem to have perfect and rock hard teeth.

I took pictures of all the families and insisted that they smile, something that isn’t normal in this culture when being photographed.

I slept that night on the grounds of the hospital, again marveling at the day and the stars.