Sunday, September 5, 2010

It's the government! (version II)

As is my habit I often will pick up hitch hikers. They are innumerable. It gives me a chance to hone some Setswana, although I still am pathetic at it. As is my habit when Lynne is over in the US, I was venturing out into the bush over the weekend. Its quiet and I get a chance to sort out the cacophony. On the way back I stopped by a district hospital to round on a patient that I had seen the previous day. I was on the side of the road answering a call as a taxi was rolled by. All taxis are private vehicles with a small sign projecting from the window so I rarely recognize them. Out of the taxi I heard "Nnaka, nnaka are you going to Gabs?!" As I was in the middle of a conversation I tried to multi-task, ignored the entreaty, and continued with the phone.

I hate these bleeping mobile phones. There are people in my life that pay so much attention to the slightest beep or buzz that rudeness has left their sphere of awareness. Ah, dopamine. But I digress.

Next thing I know the person (a house keeper at the local hospital) hops into the car and makes herself at home. Ohhhkay, where are we going? She proceeded to fill me in about how she was headed to the north of the country to organize the funeral for "the sister of my mother's mother". Funerals are very important here to honor the family member.

On the way back to Gabs, I always pass a monstrous pothole that has been under repair for, oh, about 6 months. I always count the piles of dirt and rocks and there hasn't been been a change in the number. I truly count these, I know weird. So I asked my guest how in the world this could continue and she went OFF!

"These Batswana are lazy, all the tenders (contracts) are to the Chinese and no wonder, they get it done." Not very well mind you. "I just hate this! We are so lazy!" She went on about how she, a lowly housekeeper, was the mother of three kids and all were doing great. She had a house without electricity and still was able to make a living out of her station in life. "Why not anyone else?" And on it went. Turns out she was of the same tribe as the current president, His Excellency Lieutenant Colonel Ian Khama (this is a contraction of the true title, I swear). It is about one and a half hours back to Gabs and did I ever put nickel in her slot. She slowed down when we entered traffic and actually thanked me, asking God's blessing on me. I could really use it. I took her to the bus rank (station) and again she thanked me. New in my experience.

The child I discussed (alright bragged) about last post had gained 1kg as of Wednesday. Unfortunately I was squarely in the cross hairs of the mother as I went into my usual inquisition about the environment the child would return to. The house had nine people and no income. The child has a combination of protein calorie and mass calorie malnutrition, known as marasmus-kwashiorkor, so I was a touch (alright more than a touch) reluctant to send him back into the same environment. And while I should have anticipated this, it hit the veritable fan. The end result was the mom leaving in a stew and the grandmother coming into take her role. A good if not entirely satisfactory conclusion. The child will go home after a dietitian and social worker weigh in.

Progress is slow here and won't gain momentum until the Batswana truly take charge and control of their own medical destiny; absent the infusion, intrusion, insinuation, or invitation of the ex-pat community. Sounds remotely like another area of the world from which the US just extracted/abandoned. Owning your country is so nebulous and difficult; so many variables to consider. It can't be taught. Patience, unfortunately not a component of my being. Dammit.

2 comments:

Unknown said...

Okay, okay, now I am playing how conversations with your first group of "it's the government" hitchhikers would go with this interesting lady in the car. Can't wait to hear how you think it would go....

shannonandforrest said...

Maybe the laziness has something to do with being divorced from their culture after years of imposition of 'help' and values from other cultures? Are there productive rolls that Batswana grow up expecting to fill? How did your passenger escape a similar lasitude (if that is a word??)?
xo, Shan