Wednesday, September 22, 2010
Come on Mike, connect the damn dots!
Saturday, September 11, 2010
"Who owns your life?" Part two
"Who owns your life?"
Sunday, September 5, 2010
It's the government! (version II)
Thursday, August 19, 2010
Calories in should equal calories out
Sunday, July 25, 2010
Day 5: “It’s the government!”
It began at Ghanzi Primary Hospital where I rounded, mentored, and then at 1530 hit the road for the 7hr journey back to Gabs. About 2hrs into the drive, one where I was in a hurry as you do better in the light where the animals are easily seen and avoided, I encountered a vehicle half out into the road, stalled and obviously broken down. I pulled up and asked how things were. “Not fine, not OK”
I hopped out and quickly diagnosed the car with a metal shavings for a gear box. The six people that the car had been transporting were in the classic group, speaking and gesticulating loudly. I asked if anyone wanted a ride, no response.
As I started the car they all noticed I was leaving and ran to the rig demanding a ride. I stated that I could take three followed by more lengthy discussion. Again I started the car, discussion ceased, and in piled three Batswana, followed again with loud discussion, smiles and laughter. We exchanged names and what it was we did. The woman in the front was a maid, one of the men in the back was a teacher, the other a brick layer. And then it started.
“I wouldn’t need to ride if the government paid better” she said. This coming from a Motswana that could avail herself of a free or near free education up through university, free health care, underwritten costs for food, and more. She was joined by all the others. I must admit that my response was less than charitable.
“Tell me what your dream is in the next five years.” This was followed by a lot of “I wants” and laughter. It then occurred to me that laughter is so much a part of the culture that not only did it cement a relationship, deflect confrontation in a relationship, but it also deferred accountability. “How will you get from here to a “huge house and a good car”” I asked. Silence, followed by more sentences that contained “the government”. I asked “who owns your life?” Again silence, laughter, no response. "How many of you have children?" Two had a single child. "Really, how old?” Silence, neither the woman nor one of the guys could answer as they were both parents in abstentia. “Why are you leaving your child and going on “vacation” without him/here?” Silence. I had had it, and regrettably erupted.
“This is so emblematic of this country, of any country with an underclass. Who here has graduated from secondary school?” The woman hadn’t with any apparent reason other than ambivalence. “OK, that makes you both unfortunate and stupid. You’re telling me that you couldn’t walk to school for a free education? Was there a problem?” She teared up and I backed off, regretting my outburst of righteousness. The others were leaning forward in the seat and the gauntlet was thrown down. Everything was someone else’s fault and but for that they’re lives would be successful, right up through parenthood. I said to try not using the word “government” for the next five minutes. Silence again. I became even more paternal.
“Let me see if I get this right; you have free education, free health care, food at underwritten cost (that to be fair is stored dry as there often is no electricity for refrigeration), 160 days of paid time if laid off, and the like.”
Others have declared that this is beginning to resemble a “nanny state”. Maybe. The Scandinavians are close but why do they seem more successful? Are we in an adolescent period that necessitates this as a natural progression to due process and prosperity for all here? I admit it is easy to say when I come from relative privilege, but "why isn’t there any entrepreneurial drive?Who owns the grocery stores?” “The Indians.” “The dry goods stores?” “The Chinese and the Indians.” ‘The auto dealerships?” “The Indians”. The contractors?” “The Chinese”, and again to be fair the bids are low-balled courtesy of the Chinese government.“Why not the Batswana?”
All the stops were off and that voice in my head was ignored. “Why not build the bricks and sell them, not build with them, have an agency for maids, get a free PhD.?” Laughter.
“What is funny, why laugh?” “We love to laugh.” “I get that, but do you have an answer?” “All looked to the floor, a sign of humility here. Jeez I was righteous and was having no effect. Damn I’d blown it. But because of the venting I felt better. I know stupid, really stupid and not at all charitable. We sat in silence.
The only way things could have been more awkward was if the dark road was smokey from desert fires set by someone out there. We crept. Soon they were again talking and one translated. “We think you have a point, Rra.” “I don’t want to be right. I would like you to think and ask yourselves some important questions beginning with: If I’m here, headed on vacation, where is my child?” “Am I truly ready to parent?” “Exactly who is in my sexual network? These are easy and necessary questions with no easy answers and in a country with an HIV prevalence of 40% in your age group YOU need to be accountable to yourself and answer it”
As I write this I’m not proud of it but for the sake of transparency, something for which I dedicated this blog in the beginning, there it is. I got home with ambivalent feelings and then recalled how fortunate I was to have spent time in the remote bush.
Day 4: “Sure we like gays.”
I awakened early and hit the dust again. I stopped and saw the dawn eating an apple and some nuts that Lynn had provided and journeyed on. This was the day I had been looking to as it took me way out into the Kalahari. The Kalahari doesn’t’ stop at some arbitrary boundary. It covers the entire country except the delta and the ancient hills in the NE section. The vistas were stunning.
I rode across hard “pans”, dried shallow round lakes that are white after they dry. In the moon light one can read from the reflected light. Looking over each of the larger pans was a settlement; each village as unique as the next, each as quiet as the next; kids everywhere, playing football with whatever, squealing toddlers on the backs of mothers, incessant talking and conversation. At last I was truly in the land of the San and Batswana.
I have always felt that Gabs, and Bots in general, was “Africa light”. Now I was out in villages that at some level were still innocent and naïve, needing preservation not intrusion. I drove quietly, didn’t get out of the rig for fear of “contaminating” the village, and drove on. The 240km to Charles Hill was the most rutted I had seen. And when it wasn’t rutted it was “wash boarded”. Not sure which is worse, the side aches from being tossed around in the ruts or the headache from the wash board. On occasion the wash board was smoothed over with rock and sand. Interestingly the sand was akin to powered cement; limestone and chalk. Once wetted it was rock hard and unforgiving; talk about your headache.
I ultimately entered Ncojane, pronounced with a click, the kind where you use your tongue in the front of your mouth to make that “tisk-tisk” sound. I picked up three people and started to head for Charles Hill. Two of them quickly announced they were gay and was “that OK?” but with a bit of a confrontational tone. No problems here say I, and then encountered some of their friends before we got underway. These guys were true flamers, multiply pierced, in skin tight pants with a sway at the hips that belied the stereotype. I wondered aloud how this went down in a small village in Botswana. “No problem”, they said. I wish we so enlightened, PFLAG member that I have been.
We made it to Charles Hill on fumes and were chagrined to find out that there wasn’t any fuel in town. We asked around and were told to head to the border with Namibia where there was gas just on the other side of the border. Only trouble was that I didn’t have a passport. No worries the passengers said we’ll get an immigration person to do it. We went there and the guys negotiated with the passport clerks to have one of them take the rig over the border and have it filled with gas. I gave the keys to him, as if I had a choice, and some pula. 20min later he returned with the car and a full tank. Wow and whew.
We rolled into Ghanzi, 250km of paved road later, shook hands and parted. I got a room at a hotel I had used in the past and had a beer. Best beer I have had in country so far.